Top of the World Above Gringo Gulch!

The city of Puerto Vallarta has built a new stairway, making it easier for visitors and locals to reach the cross monument located on top of the hills behind El Centro, by way of a new stairway. In order to discover the enhancement, we went exploring and took some photographs hoping to inspire you to check it out!

They say the best way to get to know a new city is by befriending a dog owner. When local rescue dog champion Candace Shaw suggested we hike from the Isla Río Cuale all the way up to the hills behind Puerto Vallarta’s El Centro and Gringo Gulch neighborhoods, we couldn’t say no.

Candace invited a few of us to gather at the Isla Río Cuale at 11 am this past weekend, informing us that it would take approximately 30 minutes to climb to the top of the hill and 30 minutes to return. She also said she’d be bringing “the dogs,” but we never imagined she’d show up with five of them, all tied to the same leash!

The narrow island that separates Puerto Vallarta’s El Centro and Emiliano Zapata neighborhoods (north and south of it, respectively) is home to a number of restaurants, artisan stands, and a small building complex that houses the city’s Cultural Department, not to mention a huge population of stray cats. For many, it’s simply a part of town one passes by on the way to go somewhere else. But when you spend the time to know it, Isla Río Cuale is truly one of the city’s most important verdant oasis.

A pedestrian bridge that connects Isla Río Cuale with the Gringo Gulch neighborhood was inaugurated recently, making it much easier for folks to cross over from one neighborhood to the next. The bridge is quite tall, allowing for spectacular vistas all around.

Standing in the middle of the Gringo Gulch pedestrian bridge, we enjoyed a clear view of our destination: the towers on top of the hill, next to which a small monument in the shape of a cross has just been overhauled with a brand-new observation deck.

First, however, we walked through Gringo Gulch, a neighborhood where many of the original expats settled in town. Most of the homes built here are original constructions and a real sense of Mexico can be enjoyed as you explore its cobblestoned winding streets. Gringo Gulch is a fairly quiet, relaxed neighborhood. And on a Sunday morning, it is particularly peaceful, perfect for a leisurely stroll with good friends, camera in hand.

A water stop for the dogs was in order. It was a warm day, but fortunately the buildings around us cast a shade allowing us to stay away from direct sunlight for much of the walk.

Upon arriving at Arroyo del Pedregoso, we turned onto a street so narrow, only quad bikes could possibly travel through it, and only those with truly rugged traction. Horses and donkeys, too!

Candace had raved about a tiny, family-owned eatery along the way, where she had stopped for late lunch on a previous walk. When she pointed it to us, the curious owner peeked over her balcony. We inquired about the road conditions during the rainy season. “It does get a little crazy,” she said.

One of our most memorable sights was a tiny, scruffy dog w. “Finally, they chopped his hair off,” Candace exclaimed as she pointed him out. “It used to be a mess.” Stray cats and dogs abound in Puerto Vallarta, and despite the best efforts of a handful of non-profit organizations devoted to animal protection and care, maintaining the population in check is an uphill battle.

As we kept climbing, the entire bay began revealing itself to us, a perfect distraction from the increasingly steep path. The fact that the city has invested in paved paths for quads, donkeys and pedestrians was a major advantage.Still, good traction is essential once you approach the final climb. Despite your best intentions, it’s quite easy to slip and fall.

Our destination, finally! The cross has been in existence for many years, and only recently, the City built a larger area to take in the spectacular view from this privileged vantage point. It is unclear at this point what else the City has planned for the location, but if anything, we were truly grateful for a bit of shade.

Behold Banderas Bay. From this point one can take it in in its entirety. And on a clear day, one can easily point out Punta de Mita and the Marietas Islands on the north point, and Yelapa on the opposite end. The idea of returning at sunset time, or during whalewatching season came to mind immediately.

On the way down, we discovered the steps the City has just build to make it easier for folks to reach the cross. We were happy to climb the way we did, but given the steepness of some of the path,we also appreciated the steps on the way down, for a safe return. We stopped for another water break for the dogs and the obligatory group shot!

Finally, we took time to stop at the City’s original lighthouse. It has been restored with a new observation deck on top of it, allowing visitors another sweet spot to take in the surrounding beauty. Further down the street, we spotted the CECATUR auditorium, where a variety of music, dance and theater performances take place year-around.

Once back at our starting point, a taco stand and a cold beer were the next items in our agenda, along with the promise to return, and walk the path again with new friends.

Keep In Mind:

1. If possible, schedule your walk early in the day, or late afternoon, particularly during the warmer months. Not only will you be more refreshed, but you will also obtain better photos, given the sun’s direction.
2. Bring plenty of water to stay hydrated.
3. Wear a hat to protect your head from the sun.